HONEYMOON, Part 2. CHOBE

If we thought the flight into the delta was spectacular, we never imagined it could be surpassed by the flight out. We sat on a log near the Oddballs landing strip and saw a small plane land smoothly. After unloading provisions, we were the only two passengers aboard this 4-seater for the one hour flight to Kasane. There we were on our own private plane! We flew out of the watery delta and then over a forested area, not seeing any sign of habitation during the entire flight. Botswana is the size of France but has a population of less than two million, so it’s not surprising that there are large empty spaces.

We arrived at the Chobe Marina Lodge— the antitheses of Oddballs Camp! We had a luxury room with all the mod cons, but the best was having a balcony overlooking the river. We received all the honeymoon treats including a nice bottle of South African bubbly—and celebrate we did!

Chobe National Park is know for its large herds of elephants and buffalo, so we were excited to get game watching. On our first evening, we went on a river cruise and saw hippos in the water, hippos out of the water munching on the lush green grass and hippos chasing hippos. For an animal that is usually seen as eyes and ears peeping above the waterline, we were thrilled! It was an exciting start to our stay in Kasane, a modest but pleasant Botswanan town.

We went on several game drives and were treated to lion viewings! The best was a beautiful young lion pair who seemed to enjoy posing for us. The thousands of elephants eluded us, but we did see a few. The guides seemed to take great delight in driving as close as possible them-- it is completely unnerving when such a massive creature heads straight toward the safari vehicle. We loved the hippo and lion sightings, but were longing for more elephants…..

In Part 3, we cross the border into Zimbabwe.

Honeymoon, Part 1. The Okavango Delta.

On Dec 28th, after having been married for an entire week, Glen and I boarded Air Botswana Flight #212. Our destination was Maun, located in the northern part of the country. We both noted the rundown state of the aircraft, which looked to be 30 or 40 years old, and crossed our fingers for a safe arrival—which, despite a bumpy landing, it was. Once in Maun, the excitement really began-- we boarded a six seater plane and headed to the Okavango, a unique location in a land-locked country. Rains that accumulate high in the mountains of Angola flow inland to create a vast lush delta. Once out of Maun, there was nothing but wilderness—no sign of human habitation whatsoever. Because we were flying low, we could see elephants and giraffe wandering below.

The bush pilot was amazing—he landed on the dirt landing strip in the Okavango as if it were teflon—and there we were at Oddballs Camp—our first destination. We were greeted on the landing strip, just outside the camp by Joyce, the ever pleasant manager and our guide for our stay, Kitso.

Although the camp can accommodate 32, we learned we were the only two guests and were treated like royalty. We had booked into a dome tent, but were upgraded to what I called the Presidential Suite—a hut of dried reeds with a thatched roof complete with a full bathroom and hot running water. The mosquito net covered bed was decorated with fresh foliage for our arrival. The only downside of our exotic hideaway was that we shared it with the fruit bats who lived in the peak of the roof. Sure enough, there they were hanging upside down over the bathroom. Joyce, ever pragmatic, commented, “Well, they were here first…” I decided that the best way to deal with then was to avoid looking up as they totally creeped me out in the otherwise very pleasant surroundings.

As we settled in, we could hear the grunts of hippos in the swampy delta outside our hut and that night, one was so close, we could hear him munching grass! Hippos are LOUD! We headed out in a mokoro (a flat bottomed dugout canoe) that is poled through the papyrus. We were both a little nervous as the delta is full of hippos (the most dangerous animal in Africa) and crocodiles. Kitso, our guide, explained that we shouldn’t worry—we travelled through narrow passages in the tall reeds barely wider than the mokoro. Just as we were to cross an open channel, Glen shouted “Hippos!” and sure enough, two eyes and ears just above the waterline, were directly in our path. It was a heart stopping moment and our guide the halted the mokoro immediately. We waited while he judged what the pair were up to and then, when he deemed it safe, quickly crossed the channel.

The next morning, after a quick coffee and muffin, we headed out with Kitso for a walking safari at 630am. After about three and a half hours of non-stop walking, we hadn’t seen much wildlife with the exception of abundant birdlife. Suddenly, Kitso, our unarmed guide, looked down and said one word, “Lion.” At first, I thought he was joking, but we began following the lion tracks. He upgraded the call to “A pair of lions” and we continued. Even I could tell that the tracks were getting fresher and fresher when Kitso’s final proclamation was, “It’s a pride.” After about 30 minutes of tracking, we were losing steam—soaked from the waist down from the tall wet grasses and flagging in the mid-morning heat, we turned back toward the mokoro as the tracks moved further inland. I was relieved. Although I was excited at the idea of seeing a pride of lions, I was also terrified.

We returned to camp to be served a huge English breakfast. Guides and managers dine with the guests (that wouldn’t happen in South Africa!). It gave us a chance to talk more about the animals and their experiences living and working in the delta.

During one of these breakfasts, Kitso confided in us that his uncle, a guide in one of the nearby camps, had been killed recently by a bull elephant during a walking safari. In order to make sure his hikers were safe, he literally sacrificed his own life to protect them. Kitso mentioned sotto voce that the guides had been forbidden to tell guests about his uncle’s death for fear of hurting tourism. After hearing this, I was doubly relieved that we hadn’t found those lions but was again reminded of just how remote and wild the delta is.

Stay tuned for Part 2 when we head to the Chobe River in search of elephants….

WEDDING PICS

We're off to Botswana in the morning, but if you want to see a sneak preview of some great wedding pics by Danielle Pretorius, go to Wedding Angel Photography on Facebook and look for "Rob & Glen".

WE DID IT!

At about 5pm, on Dec 21st, we did it! Glen and I were married!!

Like all weddings, it was not without its drama. My sister, who was also my witness, was due to arrive at 6am the day prior to the wedding. But because Heathrow was closed due to severe weather and other complications too numerous to mention, her trip took four days!! She arrived at 2pm on the day of the wedding-- just in time to shower and change for the 5pm service!

Twenty-six hours prior to the wedding, we still were not sure my sister would arrive in time and if she did would her luggage-- which contained my wedding dress and shoes-- arrive with her. So at 3pm on the eve of the wedding, cousin Alida from Chicago and I, set out to find a new wedding dress (unaware that stores were closing at 6pm!). As you can see from the pic, we were successful! Shoes were purchased in a department store as the lights were flickering to mark closing time. Cousins Alida and Bob were life-savers, stepping to to do all that was necessary as I had stopped sleeping fretting about my sister's whereabouts!

Just as I stepped out the door to be transported to the wedding, the skies opened: lightning, thunder and a downpour. Fortunately, we had a arranged with the restaurant, Roots at Forum Homini, where we were being married, to move the ceremony inside if the weather turned inclement. It certainly made for a dramatic ceremony, but I hardly noticed. My pal, Heather Graham, had kindly reminded me to try to be in the moment and enjoy this life-changing ceremony-- so I simply stayed focused on my beloved.

The Rev, Chris Page, who could not have prepared a more perfect ceremony for us, mentioned that not only was it the Summer Solstice, but it was a full moon and a lunar eclipse-- a most auspicious day for a wedding!

It all turned out beautifully-- dinner, fire at the cabins where we spent two nights and a post-wedding breakfast with the gang. We are off to our honeymoon in Botswana on the 28th! WOO HOO!

WHAT A YEAR IT'S BEEN!

PREVIEW OF OUR WEDDING LOCATION AT THE CRADLE OF HUMANKIND


I woke up at 5am this morning and thought, "Next week at this time, I will wake up married for the first time in 28 years!!!!" If that isn't enough to make one's heart stop, I don't know what is!

But it is exactly the right way to end this jam-packed year. One year ago I was packing to return to South Africa to be re-united with Glen after months of separation.

We didn't return to our familiar apartment at Brookwood, but were instead camped out in a tiny bedroom at Craig's, our friend and former landlord's place. Glen's things were stacked in Craig's garage and, as we were only to discover later, becoming a cozy home to the local mice colony.

Then time began to move faster and hasn't stopped! Before we left on our Christmas holidays last year, Glen showed me the Emmarentia house where we were to move in the new year.

In January, we moved and began the process of turning the Emmarentia house into an inhabitable place.
In February, Glen finally got divorced and we began working on the stacks of paperwork required for his Canadian residency.
In March, I returned to Canada to do another tv series and we submitted Glen's application for Canadian residency.
In April, Glen proposed via skype-- appropriate for a romance that began and was kept alive via the internet.
In May, Glen sold the Emmarentia house, left his job of 13 years at the NBI, went freelance as a consultant and I was approved as his Sponsor by Canadian Immigration. I commuted to and from Kitchener, Ontario, for 6 weeks to shoot a tv series.
In June, we planned and booked a South African wedding via internet while I was working in Kitchener.
In July, we booked a honeymoon to Botswana.
In August, Glen arrived in Canada. We were feted at a party given by Gail, Bill & Leslie: attended the Herman Family Reunion; and spent time in the UK with Jonathan, Hayley and Mike.
In September, we found a new place to move and packed up all our belongings while I assembled a mass of paper for my South African Residency. I telecommuted and did some work for a Canadian production company.
In October, we moved and Home Affairs accepted my South African Visa paperwork.
In November, Glen worked like a demon and I got to kick back and join a gym, start pottery classes and write for an e-zine, while keeping wedding plans moving along.
And now, in December, we take care of all the last minute wedding details while awaiting the arrival of our guests from South Africa, the UK and the US.
December 21st we do the deed! December 28th, we head to Botswana and exhale!

A TALE OF TWO LITTLE GIRLS

This is a tale of two little South African girls, both aged 4. One is African, the other is Indian.

Last week, Grace, our domestic worker, told me about her little girl, Karabo. She has a tooth that was so badly infected that it was bleeding. Her cheek was swollen and the infection had travelled to her ear. The child was in so much pain that she couldn’t eat or sleep. Fortunately, Grace was able to take her to a clinic and get her on antibiotics. Today, Grace told me that Karabo is doing better, but her cheek is still purple and she is still in pain. They are waiting for the antibiotics to clear up the infection and then will pull the tooth, one of her permanent ones.

Yesterday, I returned home and pulled into the garage. There is a “street” in our small complex where the many children who live here, of all sizes and colours, play. Two little ones, aged 4, Sabi and Alex, are my favourites. If our front door is open they will often pop in for a quick visit and they have proclaimed our place “very nice”. When I got out of my very basic and serviceable Fiat Palio, they were there to greet me. Sabi, the little girl of the pair, informed me has she has a much nicer car than I do. She proudly added that it is an Audi. I was quite astonished that a 4 year old even knew what an Audi was! I tried to explain that my car was a blue and that colour was very nice, making mine a very good car too. She would have none of it and returned to play with Alex.

The South Africa that these two little girls live in are worlds apart. Sabi’s mom is our next door neighbour and couldn’t be a more a more friendly charming person. She is a stay-at-home mom with two small children, age 4 and 9. She also has a domestic helper 7 days a week who does the housework and will look after the kids if she has to go out. Recently, when I mentioned I had joined a gym and would she like to come along sometime, she mentioned she had no free time for such things—it would be impossible as she is just too busy.

Grace is a single mom who works as a domestic for various families 5 days a week. She lives in a township called Diepsloot and I have always feared of asking her what her living conditions are like, but I can imagine as the townships are known to be notoriously unsafe.

I cannot help but wonder about these two little girls, Karabo and Sabi, whose lives could not be more different. What will growing up be like for each of them? Where will each of them end up? I would love to be able to see each of them fifteen or twenty years hence as I can not imagine what their lives will be like.

SO THIS IS WHAT LOVE IS........

While at the gym yesterday, I kept thinking of love and how it has changed not only my life, but how it has changed me. If you’re not in the mood for love, I suggest skipping this one.

Maybe what got me thinking was the fact that I looked at the calendar and realized that we are getting married in six weeks! Eish! Better start writing those vows.

Seriously, now that we are settled into our new place, life has taken on an interesting rhythm. We spend most of our time together and after so many months apart, it feels wonderful just to have Glen around. We truly appreciate the time together even when doing the mundane and let’s face it, there is a fair amount of that in daily life.

There is something relaxing in me and there is a closeness with Glen that I have never experienced in quite the same way with another person. Life is calmer and life is good. Problems can be discussed and sorted together. There is an ear and there is a shared life. After all those years on my own, I’m not sure I have ever felt this supported before.

It all feels so right and six weeks from today we seal the deal.